【文化迪庆有传人】卓玛做奔子栏藏装：一生只做一件事

“从小家里就很不让我做家务了，作为家里‘五朵金花’的第一朵，一直以来全家对我的要求只有一个：做针线、缝藏装，而这也是我最爱做的事。”

“Though I am the eldest among five daughters at home, my parents rarely ask me to do housework. They instead prefer me to sew Tibetan costumes and that is their only requirement for me,” Zhuoma said.

这是省级非物质文化遗产项目藏族服装缝制工艺代表性传承人卓玛的心里话。在云南省迪庆藏族自治州德钦县奔子栏镇，当我们一早走进卓玛家的小院，她已经精心梳洗，身上的紫色轻便藏装一尘不染，表面游走的金丝线蜿蜒成细密美丽的花纹，格外精致。

卓玛正要开始一天的忙碌。从15岁第一次拿起针线，她学了10年，才做出了人生中第一套藏装。今天，55岁的卓玛拥有自己的藏族服装工厂，产品畅销当地乃至周边地区，但坐在缝纫机前，看着心中的样式在手里渐渐成型，她依然能够感到和当初一样的喜悦及成就感。

When we reached Zhuoma’s courtyard, which lies in Benzilan Township, Deqin County, Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan Province, Zhuoma had waited us, in a purple cloth. It was casual, yet interspersed by golden silk, exquisitely.

Zhuoma told us that she spent ten years making the first Tibetan costume after she picked up a needle at 15. She now, aged 55, has set up her own factory in Tibetan costumes making and the products are popular in local and surrounding areas.

She said that she can still feel the joy and sense of achievement in the same way as she did four decades ago, when sitting in front of the sewing machine and seeing the costume gradually take shape.

“传统藏装需要手工制作，女装的工艺比较复杂，青年、中年、老年人的款式不一样，料子很讲究，还有装饰也很重要，一个人做的话怎么都得十几天……”说起藏装，卓玛总是神采飞扬，不时发出的爽朗笑声感染了小院里的每一个人。

“Traditional Tibetan costumes are all handmade. Crafts of women’s clothes are complicated and styles for the youths, middle-aged and senior people are different. So are materials and decorations on the clothes. Generally, a single costume takes one over ten days to accomplish,” Zhuoma was in a delighted voice, when it comes to Tibetan costumes.

奔子栏藏装颜色鲜艳，搭配巧妙，在保留传统藏族服装式样的同时，包头、百褶裙等也极具本地区特色。藏装在当地藏族人的生活中至今有着非常重要的作用，几乎每个人都至少要有一套，婚丧嫁娶、过年过节、跳锅庄舞，都用得着。但在当地，藏装制作曾经一度面临失传。“当我的父亲张生接到东竹林寺制作舞服的邀请时，他已经是当地唯一一个懂得传统藏装制作手艺的人了。”卓玛说。

The costumes in Benzilan are colorful and matched delicately. While keeping traditional styles, the hat and the pleated skirt are of local features. Almost everyone needs a costume for events like weddings, funerals, festivals and the Guozhuang dance.

Although the costume plays an important role in daily life of Tibetans, it was once on the verge of extinction. Zhuoma said that her father used to be asked to make dancing costumes by local monks. Back then, he was the only craftsman who can make traditional Tibetan costumes.

作为五姐妹里的大姐，卓玛也从小就承载了家族的期待。15岁起，父亲做衣服时，卓玛就跟在一旁学。“快快，放着我来！”每当撸起袖子准备做家务活儿，妹妹们都会一把抢过去帮着做。

藏装的魅力也让卓玛深深着迷，多年苦学，针线经纬早已烂熟于心；不论寒暑，工作室里卓玛的身影几乎从未缺席。

As the eldest in her family, Zhuoma was highly expected to pass down the inheritance. She started learning the craft at the age of 15 from her father, while other sisters would do all the housework so that she could focus on sewing.

Attracted by the charm of Tibetan costumes, Zhuoma spent all her time in working place. Years of hard work made her a skillful costume maker.

卓玛不仅完整地继承了父辈的手艺，也一点点编织起了一家人的幸福生活。如今，厂里的缝纫机增加到了5台，家里儿媳也开始跟着她学习，她们制作的产品更是广受欢迎。

Having learnt all sewing skills from her father, Zhuoma helped her family better off because of the craft. Zhuoma now is the representative inheritor of Tibetan costumes sewing, a provincial intangible cultural heritage. There are 5 sewing machines in the factory and her daughter-in-law also began to learn the skill from her and the products they make are popular.

“眼看到9月份了，春节前的订单都还没做完，太多了只能排队了。”卓玛脸上露出了不好意思的表情。她告诉我们，工厂现在能制作许多式样的藏装，适合正式场合和日常穿戴，价格从几千元到数万元不等，由于工艺精湛，他们的产品甚至被多家博物馆收藏。

“It is September now but orders before the Chinese New Year are not done yet. Too many!” Zhuoma said in a shy smile. We can make costumes in different styles that fit formal occasions or daily use, and the prices range from thousands to tens of thousands RMB, she told us. Sewn in exquisite workmanship, many of their products are collected by museums.

“没个领子，挂那么重的装饰，脖子要疼的嘛。”卓玛还以人性的视角对传统工艺进行了改良。正式的藏装加上了柔软的领子，带上饰品舒服一些；传统藏装穿起来不方便，系带子的地方她就改成了松紧带和魔术贴……

“With such heavy decorations, the wearer will feel neck pains without a collar,” Zhuoma pointed out. While sticking to traditional customs, she also made some improvements—it’ll be more comfortable after adding a soft collar in a formal costume; costumes will be better fastened if the tie is changed into a hook, loop or elastics…

去年，东竹林寺又找到卓玛，想请她做新的舞服，而旧的舞服，正是父亲当年做的。从父亲到卓玛，30多年时光已经很难用布料和针线去丈量， “我一生只做了这么一件事，就是做藏装。”说到这里，卓玛脸上洋溢着骄傲和幸福的笑容。

Last year, a local temple asked Zhuoma to make the dancing costumes, just like what had happened to her father. Decades of sewing is an enjoyable journey for Zhuoma, she said proudly and happily. Tibetan costumes making is a lifelong career for her.

云南日报全媒体记者：张若谷 熊燕 储东华 李文君

英文编译：李恒强